Les Petits Marseillais
72, rue Vieille du Temple
some southern French cuisine, but only have time to visit
Paris? Check out Les Petits
Marseillais in the Marais. This bar/restaurant serves great
food à la Marseillaise in a warm, almost sunny environment
(a real accomplishment in grey Paris). The gambas (prawns)
and calamars (squid) are excellent. The "Petits Marseillais" steak
is also excellent. The wait staff here are helpful and provide
excellent recommendations. You'll want to save room for desert,
but no worries, all of their deserts are good. A dinner here
will cost you about 20-30 € before the wine, which starts
at about 18 € per bottle. Lunch is slightly cheaper with
an 11 € menu.
Un Piano sur le trottoir
7, rue des Francs-Bourgeois
little restaurant in the Marais, which advertises itself
with the descriptor "Ambiance
Musicale" starts the day as an eccentric little restaurant,
but as the evening continues, it becomes a piano bar with karaoke.
It might seem strange for your late dinner to be interrupted
by your waiter singing Neil Diamond to you at your table, but
it's an experience that you definitely won't forget, and will
likely enjoy. While the menu, all French, changes throughout
the year, the chef makes a great lapin à deux moutardes
(rabbit in two mustard sauce). The desserts here are hit and
miss, but the moelleux au chocolat is quite good. A meal at
this charming and cozy restaurant, closed Mondays, costs about
16-30 € before wine, which starts at about 18 €.
You can't miss the place. Just as its name suggests, there
is a piano on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant.
Godjo Le Restaurant
8, rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique
little restaurant, just down the street from the École Polytechnique serves
Ethiopian cuisine in a Franco-Ethiopian environment. The service
is tremendous, the tables are cozy, if slightly cramped, and
the food is wonderful. You can't go wrong on this menu, and
you get to eat with your hands. What's not to like? Bring someone
with you when you go, otherwise you'll find yourself with a
massive amount of leftovers. A meal here will cost about 15-20 € per
32 bis rue Sainte Anne
is an inexpensive Japanese noodle shop serving Udon, Ramen,
and Tempura amongst
other standards of Japanese cuisine. While the decor is drab,
the food is a good deal and right down the street from the
Place de l'Opéra. Situated in a small enclave of Japanese
shops and restaurants, Higuma makes for a great lunch between
sight-seeing stops. A meal here costs about 10 €.
Bayou la seine
20, rue St. Paul
la Seine is a cajun restaurant in the heart of the Marais.
Next door is the American
market Thanksgiving (great if you have a burning desire for
some peanut butter, but be prepared to spend twice the price
for it). Bayou la seine serves excellent Cajun fare with
a mild French touch (the restaurant is run by an American
a French chef). The Oysters Rockefeller are excellent and
so is the Jambalaya. Dinner will cost at least 20 € per person
before wine and can easily cost you 40 € each. You might
want to try out the Cajun Brunch on Saturday morning, which
costs about 20 € per person.
3, rue Laugier
L'Ane Rouge (The Red
Donkey) is not just a restaurant. It's a cabaret which produces
stand-up comedians and humorous shows. Besides the show, the
place is also known to be one of the very last restaurants
to serve horse meat to gourmet dinners.
24, Place du Marche Saint-Honore
Absinthe is the name
of a popular Paris bistro where, though they don't serve Absinthe,
they do serve excellent food in a friendly setting. Located
on a quiet but very chic square, in warm weather you can dine
on the terrace. The bistro is part of super-chef Michel Rostang's
restaurant empire so, quality is kept high while prices run
at about 40 euros per person with wine.
25, avenue Montaigne
new � again. Super
chef Alain Ducasse has settled into his new home at the Plaza
Athenee hotel, in a contemporary space designed by the young
Patrick Jouin. Meals to remember (with many new dishes) from
the only French chef to have received two three-star Michelin
ratings in the same year. Prices to remember too. Count 140
euros and up.
49, rue Volta
An Argentine restaurant
set in an old butcher shop, is sure to have atmosphere, but
here they also have good food, Spanish wines and friendly service.
Very popular with journalist and fashion people. About 40 euros.
25, rue de la Pompe
75016. Metro La Muette
over to the sushi bar or past the boutique to the dining
room at this new eatery
owned by Laurent Taieb (owner of Lo Sushi) and designer Philippe
Starck. After over ten years of directing his talents elsewhere,
Starck has again turned his eye to Paris and created a seductively
homey space filled with theatrical touches. The cuisine is
anachronistic for Paris: continental fusion with Eastern
accents and a Zen devotion to well-being. However, if you
you can find it listed on the menu under "I Am Bad."
53, quai des Grands Augustins
Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday
A few years ago Guy Savoy,
a chef who has a two-star restaurant named after himself, decided
to extend his domain by creating gastronomic bistrots that
would serve simply cooked, excellent food, at affordable prices
in a friendly atmosphere. This is one of these bistrots. Les
Bookinistes is facing a row of bouquins, or book stalls, on
the Left Bank. Inside, there is a sense of fun and ease that
is reinforced when you receive one of the warmest welcomes
in Paris. The set lunch menu of three courses is 25 euros,
a seriously good price for the quality of the food on offer
in a restaurant that prizes simplicity, flavor and fun over
pomp and ceremony.
47, rue de Bretagne,75003
Expect to wait at the
bar before you're able to catch Omar's eye for a table. Once
seated, order a mechoui or other Arab dishes and enjoy the
friendly atmosphere. Open until midnight. Closed Sunday lunch.
No Credit Cards. 30 euros.
Le Clos des Gourmets
16, avenue Rapp
The owners are Arnaud
Pitrois and his wife Christel. He creates his magic in a five
square meter kitchen, and she runs the dining room. Arnaud
is only 28 years old and has a very impressive background that
shows up in every dish. He has worked with Guy Savoy and Christian
Constant, who have probably done more to add new ideas to classical
French cuisine than anyone else in this city. They have trained
an increasingly important group of young chefs who are dedicated
to their craft and who have opened their own restaurants where
one can eat superbly at very reasonable prices. Le Clos Des
Gourmets is one of these. The menu changes slightly every week,
and daily additions are marked on a blackboard.
12, rue de Presbourg
a superb view of the Arc de Triumphe, a fresh menu by young
chef, Didier Doucet,
an elegant high-ceilinged interior and all new management
this restaurant is on the upswing. Tony Gomez presides
restaurant and downstairs nightclub with the style and taste
that has made him the man to follow on the Paris night scene.
Here he has created an atmosphere where you eat well (and
maybe see some beautiful people) without entering the stuffy
of four-star mannerisms. He is as happy that you enjoy the
scallops topped with thin truffle slices, as the art work � large
format photos of jazz musicians from Gomez's own collection.
Centre Pompidou. Sixth Floor.
Metro Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville.
Closed Tuesday. Open until 2am
new canteen for the artsy crowd can be found high above
the city on the sixth
floor of the Centre Pompidou. "Georges" is run by the Costes
family�which has brought us many trendy Paris cafes�and is
designed by young, Paris-based architects Dominique Jakob
and Brendan MacFarlane. The design is striking with giant,
bubbles rising out of a silver floor. These contain the kitchen,
bathrooms and VIP lounge. The real star of the restaurant,
however, is the impressive wrap-around view of Paris. To
access the restaurant without buying a museum ticket, take
elevator just to the left of the main plaza entrance. Sadly,
this doesn't mean you will be able to sneak into an exhibit
after coffee. Coffee, light food or hot entrees (10 euros
Les Grandes Marches
6, place de la Bastille
chef Christian Constant has conceived the menu for this
large, airy, contemporary
restaurant next door to the Bastille Opera. The 300-place
restaurant gets it names from the graceful, curving staircase
to the upstairs dining room. The interior by Elizabeth de
Portzamparc is refined and modern. The owner is the Flo
of Paris favorites like La Coupole, Julien and Brasserie
Flo, amongst others. While they may have made the leap
interiors, the food is traditional French � with Constant's
creative touch, of course. Menu at 30 euros. A la carte over
45 euros per person.
Second floor Eiffel Tower
The Jules Verne Restaurant
is on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower. A private elevator
(you must have a reservation to gain access) takes you 123
meters up, where a welcoming committee will greet you. Although
dinner is quite expensive, lunch is a very good value. There
is a lunch menu from Monday to Friday consisting of three courses
for 45 euros and a selection of wines priced under 30 euros.
8, rue de Berri
Open daily noon to 12:30 pm
Sushi, with its ultra modern video screens and curving
was designed by Andree Putman. Sit at the counter and try
to choose as plate
after plate of fresh and colorful sushi passes by. Plates
are different colors representing different prices. When
finished the waitress tallies up the empty dishes. About
5 euros a plate.
33, rue Marboeuf
rooms, with four different ambiences, take you from day
lit cafe, to the ice-green
leather chairs and stunning black and white of the bar, to
the hushed orange of the candlelit restaurant, to a "chill
out room" with a low ceiling and even lower seating in this
new restaurant designed by French architect Christian Biecher.
The concept being that urban professionals can come at any
time of the day or evening for something to eat and drink.
Very chic and relaxed without being "trendy." Glass of champagne
10 euros, dinner 30 euros and up.
L'Os a Moelle
3, rue Vasco de Gama
Closed Sunday & Monday
La Cave de l'Os a Moelle
181 rue de Lourmel
Thierry Faucher, who
worked with the brilliant Christian Constant, is another one
of the talented young chefs contributing to the modernization
of traditional French cuisine. Faucher opened his restaurant,
L'Os a Moelle, outside of Paris' chic districts in order to
offer excellent food at reasonable prices. The result is that
he is booked full every night. He's also taken his concept
one stage further and opened a bar across the road where you
can eat at one of two communal tables. L'Os a Moelle is small,
friendly and unfussy. At lunch the prix fixe menu is 25 euros
with a choice of six entrees. At night the price is 30 euros
for a set, six-course meal with a choice of dessert. It's all
decided for you but you won't be disappointed. Everyone arrives
anticipating an unknown menu--one they know will be brilliant.
Meanwhile, across the road the atmosphere is informal and the
food is homey. The set-price menu is 20 euros, and you serve
yourself in your own time.
10, rue de Sevigne
Excellent Italian cuisine
prepared by Toni, in this tiny restaurant, that fills up quickly
with those who know that pasta is good for the body and the
soul. Reservations suggested. Around 30 euros.
49, avenue Jean Moulin
Closed Sunday and Monday
Yves Camdeborde's popular
restaurant, La Regalade, is intimate, cluttered and warm. The
food is what the French call cuisine familiale, but the menu
goes from the fine and subtle to the truly traditional. This
restaurant caters to those who believe that simpler is better.
Camdeborde is definitely one of the talented young chefs who
exercises this thinking and the price, 28 euros for three courses
at lunch, is very reasonable for the standard of quality.
Rotisserie d'en Face
6, rue Christine
Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday
it might not sound very French, a meal of meat and potatoes
is at the heart of
the country's culinary experience. Long before nouvelle cuisine,
there were grilled steaks and plump fowl turned over a fire.
What could be better then a crisply roasted free-range chicken,
accompanied by a creamy puree de pommes de terre, then followed
by an excellent dessert? Not much. Fortunately, Parisian
chef Jacques Cagna, of the famous restaurant that bears
created the Rotisserie d'en Face, an open, roomy restaurant
where you can get exactly this meal � and more. About 45
euros with wine.
13, rue de Montalivet
Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday
It hasn't taken long
for Parisians to discover ZO, tucked off the Rue Faubourg Saint
Honore on a very quiet, but central street. In just nine months,
young and dynamic owners Micael Memmi and Olivier Haski have
conceived two-menus-in-one, both inspired by southern cuisine.
French provincial cooking shares the spotlight with sushi.
Each menu has its own chef. The clientele, too, is a mix from
the worlds of business, fashion and politics. We recommend
the mille feuille of zucchini, tomato and mozzarella, and an
incredible dessert, le Ying et le Yang, served warm and oozing
an unctuous chocolate sauce. Lunch menu 15 euros. Dinner around